From Mist to Medals
Kikkawa Brewery is innovating its way to international gold
Mount Oyama, part of the Tanzawa Mountains, is one of Japan’s most sacred mountains. And tucked away in its lush foothills is Kikkawa Jozo, a century-old sake brewery that is gaining international acclaim.
Just over an hour by train from Shinjuku, the Godo area of Isehara, Kanagawa Prefecture, lives up to its name, which means “gate of the gods.” The mists rising from nearby Sagami Bay often shroud the peak in mysterious clouds, leading to the nickname Afuri-yama (Mount Rainfall).
Abundant rain filters through the rock and becomes the groundwater from which Kikkawa draws to make its sake and instill it with a rich flavor and full aroma.
For six generations, the Kikkawa family has worked its magic. Since the founding of the brewery in 1912, a long line of artisans has been combining the area’s clear water and top-quality rice to create their sake, Kikuyu.
However, in 2020, things were looking bleak. Facing bankruptcy and with no one to take over, it seemed that the sake brewery’s proud tradition was at an end.
Fortunately, the Shimada Group swept in, taking the brewery under its wing and providing a rather unusual kuramoto (brewery owner)—former architect Norimichi Goto—to lead the way. “I aimed for the sky by designing skyscrapers, but now, instead, I am diving into the deep ocean of sake-making traditions, which is very rewarding,” Goto said.
His first months on the job were not easy. “I walked into a rough situation. The brewery was on the brink of closing,” Goto recalls. “They hadn’t even ordered rice for the next season; that’s how dire things were.”
Left: Oyama Afuri Shrine (Photo: Kunihiko Meguro, Shinto Priest of Oyama Afuri Shrine)
Center: Kikkawa toji Masanori Mizuno • Right: Kikkawa Afuri sake
But he soon came to realize the strength of the brewery’s traditions and connections to the Isehara community. And he was impressed by how the toji (master brewer), Masanori Mizuno, and his team refused to abandon ship.
“I was so deeply touched that they stayed, and it is thanks to their hard work, and the support from the community and Oyama Afuri Shrine, that we got things running again so quickly,” Goto said.
While Kikkawa is still producing the locally beloved Kikuyu brand, with the change in leadership in spring of 2021 came a new brand, Afuri. Despite being new, the Afuri brews have already received gold medals at multiple world-class sake competitions. Nari, a refined junmai daiginjo, even won the Platinum Award at the prestigious Kura Master competition in 2022 in Paris.
“We want to push the boundaries of sake, creating new varieties and bringing our products to new markets, to share the culture of sake with as many people as possible,” Goto shared.
This includes combining traditional processes with innovations that allow the brewing process to be more sustainable, such as reducing waste by only polishing away 10 percent of the rice surface or switching from oil-powered steamers to more efficient electric ones.
For those interested in trying Kikkawa’s new generation of brews, why not sample Rosy-Kasumi, a low-alcohol sake (just eight percent) that is gaining attention for its beautiful, fresh flavor. The use of an unusual pink yeast gives several of the Afuri varieties, such as the floral ‘Ohana, a festive, rose-hued tinge. More expert sake drinkers will be enthralled by Terra/Y, another Kura Master gold medalist made using minimally polished rice and slowly aged at low temperatures for an elegantly sweet finish.
This is definitely a brewery to watch.
Learn more about Kikkawa:
www.kikkawa-jozo.com/en/
