Past Meets Future
Kanagawa Prefecture offers travelers a gateway to Japanese culture, tradition, and breathtaking nature
Photo © Odawara Art Foundation
The glass panel separating the Enoura Observatory’s gallery from Sagami Bay erupts in an orange glow. It’s the summer solstice and the sun rises in perfect alignment with the long, narrow gallery designed by Japanese contemporary artist Hiroshi Sugimoto. The fiery spectacle, a cornerstone of this extraordinary project which intertwines art and nature, illuminates Sugimoto’s famous black-and-white seascapes photography series, which lines the wall and leads you to the edge of the water.
Visiting this gallery is an incredible start to our tour of four stops in Kanagawa Prefecture that take us through time, capturing deep tradition and forward-looking vision. While Tokyo may top the list for travelers exploring Japan, neighboring Kanagawa once played the same role and today is home to some of the nation’s most beautiful scenery and opportunities to come face to face with Japan’s deep history.
This first stop, the expansive facility nestled in the Enoura district of Odawara along the outermost edge of the Hakone Mountains in Kanagawa Prefecture, opened in 2017 and is home to many of Sugimoto’s works. It is managed by the Odawara Art Foundation, which he established in 2009.
As we stand alongside a long wooden table supported by a massive stone, Odawara Art Foundation Director Haruko Hoyle starts our tour by explaining how the observatory has grown. The striking table was designed by Sugimoto using 1,000-year-old cedar saved from Yakushima, a small island south of Kyushu, in Kagoshima Prefecture, whose ancient forest was designated a World Heritage Site in 1993. The stone was once a washbasin at a temple on Mount Koya and has been crafted into a leg for the table. The design reflects the mission of Sugimoto’s New Material Research Laboratory, which the artist set up in 2008 with architect Tomoyuki Sakakida, to preserve traditional methods of craftsmanship as well as traditional materials.
Stones play a major part in the Enoura Observatory concept. Sugimoto, who has made New York City his home since 1974, was in Japan during the pandemic and could not get back to New York for three years, Hoyle explains. “So, he kept buying more stones and developing this site.” The result is inspiring. A variety of stones from around Japan, each with an interesting history and connection to the country’s past, are preserved on 9,500 square meters of a former citrus grove.
Exploring the observatory is a contemplative experience—and that’s by design. “[Sugimoto] didn’t want people to just stay inside, looking at his artwork, so he developed this concept,” Hoyle says. “People can come here, get away from their busy life, and contemplate where they came from, where they are going, and their ideal relationship with nature.”
The architectural alignment that allows the summer solstice spectacle is an example of this intentional reconnection with nature. So is the design of a 70-meter-long tunnel of stone and rusted corten steel which runs underneath the gallery and creates a similar view of the winter solstice. A light well at its center provides a refuge for contemplation. This reflection on how ancient people looked to the sky and built astronomical markers, such as Stonehenge in England, is part of Sugimoto’s philosophy.
“He really wants this to be a future ruin,” Hoyle explains. “Five thousand years from now, all the glass will be shattered, no wooden structure will remain. All that future people might see are the stones and tunnel.”
They may also see the remnants of the hillside amphitheater, where the Odawara Art Foundation presents classical theater and avant-garde stage performances, including traditional Japanese Noh.
The stone steps and seats were meticulously designed by Sugimoto, who traveled to Italy to measure those of an amphitheater there to precisely recreate a millennium-old venue for artistic presentation. The seating looks out on a stage of optical glass that aligns with sunrise on the winter solstice.
Another reflection on Japan’s past, and a reprieve from modern life, can be found in the Uchoten teahouse, the style of which was inspired by that of a national treasure in Kyoto and designed by 16th-century tea master Sen no Rikyu. But Sugimoto gave the small space a local touch.
“As this was an abandoned citrus grove, there was a small storage [shed] which was used for harvesting,” Hoyle explains. “He took the corrugated tin roof off very carefully and placed it on top of the teahouse. Today, when it rains, you hear the ‘ton, ton, ton’ sound of the falling drops, so he named it Uchoten, ‘rain-listen-heaven’.”
Inside is a scroll bearing calligraphy, written by Sugimoto himself.
Like the stone stage, the room is aligned with the equinox. “On that morning,” Hoyle says, “we open the door and take the scroll down. The sun shines through the entrance and the alcove becomes pink.”
It’s yet another example of the precision with which Sugimoto has created a loving and visionary tribute not only to nature and art but to nature as art. It’s well worth a trip to Odawara to traverse the tunnel, stroll through the groves, and sense the pulse of history presented in unexpected ways.
Okada Museum of Art
Photo © Okada Museum of Art
From the coast of Sagami Bay, we wound our way along mountain roads into the depths of Hakone to visit the Okada Museum of Art.
The facility welcomed its first guests in 2013 and is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. With an exhibition area of 5,000 square meters (54,000 square feet), it is the area’s largest museum.
The first glimpse of art can be seen on approach to the museum entrance. At 30 meters (98 feet) wide by 12 meters (39 feet) high, it is difficult to miss. Kotaro Fukui’s enormous mural entitled Kaze/Toki (Wind/Time) depicts the Wind God and Thunder God, painted on 640 gold-ground panels. These guardian deities of Hakone soar through the air overlooking the popular foot baths in front of the museum. The baths are continuously filled with natural alkaline hot spring water and are free to use for guests or ¥500 for those not viewing the exhibits. Drinks and sweets are available from the accompanying café.
As we made our way around the museum exterior, we came upon trails running up the hillside. The area is particularly beautiful in autumn, when the foliage is ablaze in fiery colors, but also tantalizingly tranquil in winter, when snowfall casts the sloping hill in ethereal white. A mix of wooded areas, trickling streams, delicate waterfalls, and picturesque ponds, the entire path around the garden and can take 10–20 minutes to fully traverse. Admission is currently free and open to the public.
Photos © Okada Museum of Art (except lower right)
But the true delights are inside the five-story museum, where you’ll find an extensive collection of more than 450 treasures from Japan, South Korea, China, and other East Asian countries.
As the doors slide open to the first collection, I’m astounded by the spaciousness of the presentation. Museums in Tokyo can often present challenges to the viewer, who finds themself competing for position in tight spaces just to see works amid crowds. But here, in the dimly lit vastness, there’s no difficulty in getting up close, and the austere dark blue walls provide a framing which vividly brings these incredible works of art to life.
Learning about the art is easy, thanks to the LCD touch screens placed in front of many pieces which offer notes in Japanese, English, Chinese, and Korean.
Each of the first two exhibition floors has a distinct flavor and story to tell as you stroll the timeline of artistic and cultural history.
The first houses ceramics from China’s Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), Tang Dynasty (618–907), and Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), along with those from Korea’s Goryeo (918–1392) and Joseon Dynasties.
The second features Japanese art, primarily screen paintings from the Momoyama (1573–1600) and Edo (1603–1868) Periods. Taikan Yokoyama’s 1926 work Mt. Fuji, a sprawling 94x873 centimeter hanging scroll, is a centerpiece of the floor’s collection and is on display through June 4.
Images © Okada Museum of Art
The third floor is reserved for special exhibitions. For example, at the time of our visit, Jakuchu and Isson • Transcending Time, an exhibition featuring Edo-Period painter Jakuchu Ito and Isson Tanaka, an artist from the Showa Period, was on display. Part 1 of the Okada Museum of Art’s 10th anniversary celebration, the exhibition continues through June 4, and if you visit on your birthday, you and a companion can view it for free. Part 2, featuring Utamaro and Hokusai, will run from June 11 to December 10.
On the fifth floor are pieces of religious art, including sutra manuscripts, paintings, and Buddha statues from Japan’s Heian (794–1185) and Kamakura (1185–1333) Periods. The craftsmanship of these wood-carved figures is astounding.
With such a wealth of art on display, it takes about two hours to view the entire collection.
After browsing the works, return to the garden entrance and Kaikatei to unwind against the backdrop of nature as the soothing splash of a waterfall can be heard across the carp pond. Named after a hotel popular with foreign visitors that stood on the same property in the late 1800s, the renovated Japanese house is a memorable place to enjoy dishes such as horse mackerel tempura udon and dorayaki, a small pancake-like sandwich filled with sweet red bean paste.
A visit to the Okada Museum of Art is not only a delightful way to learn about the history of Japan and the region, but a refreshing escape to nature.
Admission is ¥2,800 for adults and university students and ¥1,800 for elementary through high school ages.
Jochi-ji Houan
An hour from Tokyo, hidden in a forested valley behind Jochi-ji Temple in Kita-Kamakura, is a quaint little tea house that time forgot.
Built in 1934 by journalist Tai Sekiguchi, Houan is home to three tea rooms—one an eight-tatami space that accommodates eight to 10 people and a smaller room of four mats which looks out onto the garden behind the house. Smaller still, a separate tea house based on the famous Ihoan tea hut inside Kyoto’s Kodai-ji Temple offers an intimate ceremony space for two people.
Houan was designed by Bunzo Yamaguchi, one of the leaders of Japan’s modernist architectural movement, and is an example of the sukiya style of Japanese architecture, which dates back to the Momoyama Period (1573–1600). Based on a natural aesthetic and rustic simplicity, sukiya is intended to exist in harmony with the surroundings; and Houan certainly does.
But as Yukiyo Matsuzaki, planner at Kyoto-based travel experience company Mitate, Ltd. and founder of Kamakura Mind explains, “Yamaguchi studied modernist architecture in Germany, so Houan is a fusion of traditional Japanese and modernist styles which creates a unique tea house.”
We explore the house on arrival with Matsuzaki and Southi Yokoyama, a professor of the Omotesenke school of tea ceremony. Yokoyama shares about the connection green tea has to the area, and some of its roles in Japanese history.
“Kamakura had a lot of Zen temples and many people practiced Zen meditation, so they used green tea as a sort of stimulate to keep awake during meditation,” she explains. And on a fiercer note, she adds, green tea was a favorite of samurai warriors before going into battle.
Samurai, we learn, were once buried in the caves along the back side of the garden, which were also used as a training ground and a grave for Zen monks.
We turn our attention to the main space and the tokonoma, the alcove commonly found in Japanese-style rooms, or washitsu. In the space is a kakejiku (hanging scroll) with calligraphy showing Zen words appropriate for the season, and alongside an ikebana flower arrangement. In recognition of the sacred nature of the tearoom, we bow to each and carefully read the inscription.
As we prepare to take part in the tea ceremony, we learn the proper way to wash our hands in the tsukubai (washbasin) outside before entering the tea house.
Hands cleansed, we take our positions, kneeling on the tatami, and Yokoyama explains each step of the ceremony. (Don’t worry, if kneeling for an extended period isn’t your style, Houan can provide chairs.)
Having watched the master prepare the tea, it’s now time to learn the proper way to drink and to show appreciation, as well as to savor the delectable wagashi (Japanese sweet) which accompanies the tea to take away the bitterness. I’ve eaten more wagashi than I can count in my many years in Japan, but this morsel, crafted by local artisan Kuu, is easily one of the most delicious I’ve ever tasted, with a splash of citrus that is eye opening. You can learn to make wagashi from Kuu in another experience offered here by Kamakura Mind. You can even enjoy your creation as part of the tea ceremony.
When the time comes to drink, admiring the beauty of the bowl is a key part of the experience. I take a close look at the playful yet restrained craftsmanship as I gently rotate the cup in my hands. Finally, I sip the tea and gently slice the wagashi in half. Savoring these flavors through the silent steps of this centuries-old tradition is a momentary escape into tranquility.
In addition to tea ceremony, Kamakura Mind also offers workshops for other traditional Japanese arts, hosts corporate training retreats, provides a venue for Zen meditation, and even guides hiking tours along the trail to the Daibutsu, the Great Buddha of Kamakura—a journey that takes about an hour and a half at a leisurely pace.
A mix of historical perspective and cultural immersion, our hour-long visit to Houan made for a particularly peaceful and memorable morning in this beautiful city that served as Japan’s capital for almost 150 years.
Hasedera
Just a short walk from Hase Station on the quaint and historic Enoden train line is Hasedera, an eighth-century Buddhist Temple that is one the oldest and most significant in Kamakura.
Formally the Kaikozan Jishion Hasedera, it is believed to have been founded in 736 after an 11-faced Kannon Boddhisattva statue washed ashore on Nagaiura Beach in Sagaminokuni and was brought to Kamakura.
Hasedera is the fourth of the four temples on the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage route, and as we arrive a group of visitors were gathering near the entrance to conclude their own journey.
We’re greeted by one of the temple’s monks who will lead us on a guided tour of the beautiful grounds featuring koi ponds, rock gardens, waterfalls, and a variety of trees and flowers. Famed for its hydrangea in summer, Hasedera is also delicately painted pink in spring, when the cherry blossoms burst forth, and brilliantly picturesque in fall, when the leaves turn. As we tour in late January, plum blossoms are beginning to dot the branches.
As we stroll through this tranquil setting, we come to Bentendo Hall, where we see the eight-armed statue of Benzaiten, the Goddess of Water and Wealth and the only female among the Japanese Seven Gods of Fortune. As we move past her, we enter the darkness of the Bentenkutsu Cave. Inside, Benzaiten and her 16 followers are chiseled out of rock walls.
As our guide explains, legend says that Kobo Daishi, known as Kukai when he was alive, traveled across Japan to spread Buddhism and secluded himself in this very cave. Here, he meditated and attained a state of spiritual communication with Benzaiten, and carved a wooden statue of the goddess with eight arms. Kukai, who lived from 775 to 835, founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism.
Past the stone figures, we duck deeper into the cave. The low ceilings mean we must crouch to navigate the catacomb-like corridors. Partway through, we happen upon a small chamber filled with miniature Buddhas on which visitors have copied sutras as they wish for good fortune.
Emerging from the cave, we make our way up the hill and into Kannondo Hall, which houses the statue of the Kannon Boddhisattva that is said to have washed ashore in 736. Standing an astonishing 9.18 meters (30.1 feet) tall, it is one of the largest wooden Buddhist statues in Japan and is the centerpiece of Hasedera. According to legend, it has been enshrined here since the temple’s founding 1,300 years ago.
As the hall long predates the advent of electric lights, viewing the statue was not always as easy as it is today. Long ago, our guide explains, lanterns were hoisted up alongside the statue so that it was possible to see the Kannon Boddhisattva’s face in the darkness.
A particular treat during this part of our tour was the recitation by our guide of a sutra, “Enmei Jukku Kannon Gyo” or the “Life-Extending Ten-Line Kannon Sutra.” We joined in by following the words provided in both kanji and romaji.
In the Kannon sutra, Kannon appears in 33 different forms to best appeal to the nature of each individual whom they are guiding out of suffering and toward enlightenment. We come face to face with these 33 avatars in the form of exquisitely detailed, life-size wood carved statues as we make our way through the museum which adjoins the chamber where the nine-meter Kannon Boddhisattva resides. Opened in 1980 as one of the first temple museums in Japan, the space presents many ancient artifacts that tell the history of Buddhism and the area surrounding Hasedera.
Upper left photo © Hasedera
We also examine the bonsho (temple bell), made in 1264 and now preserved in a glass case. The third oldest bonsho in Kamakura, it bears the earliest known inscription of the name Hasedera. It was replaced in 1984 with the current bell after an astonishing 720 years of service.
As our tour draws to a close, we make our final stop at the Kaikoan Restaurant where we enjoy green tea and mitarashi dango, a Japanese sweet of three skewered rice dumplings glazed with a sweet and savory sauce. The restaurant even offers vegan options based on the traditional recipes of Buddhist monks.
As we unwind by the window, the panoramic view across Yuigahama Beach and Sagami Bay is enchanting, and it is easy to understand why Kamakura drew so many seeking connection with nature here all those centuries ago.
Learn more and plan your visit …
Enoura Observatory
📞 0465-42-9170
Odawara Art Foundation
✉️ info@odawara-af.com
Okada Museum of Art
📞 0460-87-3931 ✉️ nishidate.hiroshi@okada-museum.com
Hasedera
📞 0467-22-6300 ✉️ soumu@hasedera.jp
